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NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Gilbert's Mediterranean Cafe
219 10th St., Atlanta. 404-872-8012


For accessAtlanta
Published on: 03/03/2005

AT GILBERT'S MEDITERRANEAN CAFE, brothers Sean and Gilbert Yeremyan have created a nifty neighborhood restaurant that's comfy and urbane. The Yeremyans grew up in Turkey, and their Greek/Armenian heritage is reflected in the eclectic, value-priced menu. The stylish décor is just right for the intimate storefront's Midtown setting. And the bar area is a lively spot to grab a drink as late as 2 a.m.

MIDTOWN CHIC: For such a small space, Gilbert's packs a lot of design punch. Dark as a cocktail lounge, it can be a challenge to read the menu. But the diffused light from pierced metal hanging lamps gives the place a sort of souk-meets-Casbah feel that is exotic and romantic. Adding to a greater sense of space are the angled walls in soft mauve tones and the raised bar area, backlit, mirrored and glowing with faux melting candles. Black-and-white photos of Mediterranean scenes hang on the one long wall in the dining room. Other than a few round four-tops and one long communal-style table with benches, most of the tables are round cafe-style two-tops.

Billy Smith II/AJC


The Zorba sampler, made with baba ghannouj, hummus and feta cheese, among other things, makes a tasty first course.

MEDITERRANEAN MENU: The sizable, pan-Mediterranean menu is divided into soups, salads and small plates and more substantial entrees. The Zorba sampler platter, which can be ordered for two or four, makes a great starter. Smoky baba ghannouj; smooth, rich hummus; dolmathakia, a juicy slice of lamb gyro; Turkish salad; fresh feta cheese; Kalamata olives; artichoke hearts; pepperoncinis and fluffy pita bread are all very good and excellent together. Other appetizers include spanakopita, falafel, borek, Greek salad or and red lentil soup.

Among the favorite main courses are lamb tenderloin with roasted potatoes and vegetables; pan-fried, almond-crusted trout with Basmati rice pilaf; and paella for two, with vegetables, chicken, shrimp, squid and mussels. We really like the creamy eggplant moussaka, made with ground lamb and Parmesan béchamel and melted provolone cheese; it stays nice and hot in a gratin dish. For lighter dining, the spicy, chargrilled lamb burger is a good choice. It's served open on pita bread with lettuce, tomato, onion, feta cheese and tzatziki sauce with a side of shoestring fries. For dessert, there's key lime cheesecake, tiramisu, baklava and crème brûlée.

BEFORE AND AFTER-HOURS: Gilbert's serves brunch Fridays through Sundays with unique menu items such as gyro meat with scrambled eggs and biscuits with gyro gravy. There's a late-night pizza menu from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays. Of the some 45 wines, 30 are available by the glass, with reasonably priced selections from the Mediterranean and California.

 

 

 

THE VERDICT: Really good Mediterranean in the Midtown neighborhood.
HOURS: 5-10 p.m. Sundays-Saturdays. Brunch: 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Sundays. Bar menu: 10 p.m.-2 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays
PRICES: Appetizers $4.50-$14; entrees $10-$28; desserts $5-$6
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards accepted
RESERVATIONS: Accepted
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Zorba sampler platter, eggplant moussaka, lamb burger
CHILDREN: Suitable for adults only
PARKING: Limited
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Smoking in bar
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate
TAKEOUT: Yes

 

FOOD & DRINK | GRAZING 03.30.05

Double Duty
Return visits to two restaurants produce one happy surprise

BY CLIFF BOSTOCK

 

I visited two restaurants with a few things in common this week. First, I've given both restaurants relatively negative reviews in the past. Second, an employee at each restaurant referred to me as "sir." OK, "sir" is better than "madam." It even beats "gramps." But I don't like it. As it happens, I've been thinking I need a disguise like some critics wear. So maybe Creative Loafing would pay to make me less recognizable by underwriting some head-to-toe botox injections.

Meanwhile, I'll continue to glower at people who remind me of my decrepitude. And I can assure you that has nothing to do with my feelings about The Village Café (1259 Glenwood Ave., 404-627-4433) and Gilbert's Mediterranean Cafe (219 10th St., 404-872-8012).

The Village Café is actually the old Burrito Delight - < this part of the review cut >

On the other hand, I'm happy to report an excellent meal at Gilbert's. When this tiny restaurant initially opened, I did not have good meals. Then the owners opened the short-lived Balance, which I loved in its early days. I could never figure why one restaurant was so much better than the other.

Gilbert's has since turned into quite a jewel. I always did like the decor here - an exotic, erotic space with a red banquette and kinky lighting. The festive bar seems to be as popular as the restaurant. Gilbert's hosts flamenco dancing once or twice a month, and every Tuesday night you can see belly dancing (featuring men and women). I've not seen either and have difficulty visualizing the events in such a tiny space. But there are worse things than being crowded close to a semi-nude, writhing body.

Wayne and I shared a starter platter that featured baba ganouj, hummus, artichoke hearts, feta cheese, kalamata olives, a small lamb gyro and stuffed grape leaves. I was particularly fond of the smoky baba ganouj, but everything on the crowded plate was fresh and flavorful. We also ordered a plate of grilled squid over balsamic-washed salad greens. The squid was sweet and bore the marks and strong flavor of grilling.

Entrees were also pleasing. I had a burger made of a ground lamb patty stuffed in pita with feta and some tzatziki sauce. (My mama used to make me this, so I got all misty!) Wayne ordered tilapia baked with a seafood stuffing heavy with bell peppers. A light sauce of some sort might make the fish even better.

It is always a pleasure to return to a restaurant and find it vastly improved

 

 WWW.CitySearch.Com

Editorial Rating

This tiny Midtown café blends down-home warmth with a bohemian element native to the pedestrian-heavy corner of 10th and Piedmont. Inside, a sophisticated but raucously fun crowd drowns out the retro, international groove music.

This sleek contemporary bistro offers a mostly successful fusion of Mediterranean rim dishes. Borek (thin phyllo pastries) and a funky piyaz (a tangy bean salad) are solid variations on classic Istanbul dishes. The baba ghannouj is smoky with just the right amount of tahini. A deliciously tender chicken shish kebab, an entree, is heavily spiced, though not too much. Cilantro- and mango-encrusted trout on a bed of Indian basmati rice strikes a perfect balance between competing flavors. For dessert, baklava is filled with ground walnuts and soaked with honey, and would be perfect if it weren't paired with an out-of-place cherry syrup. Tiramisu is so light it practically floats off the plate.

— Michael Alvear

 

WWW.ABOUT.COM

Gilbert's Mediterranean Café is a wonderful neighborhood restaurant, with excellent food and reasonable prices. Located just past the intersection of 10th and Piedmont in Midtown, parking can be a challenge, especially on the weekends. There is now additional parking across the street, or take a tip from a resident-park on one of the many residential side streets near the restaurant. This is a minor inconvenience for such a great little restaurant.

Gilbert's original incarnation was that of an international gourmet market, with take-out food service. That business was successful enough for the owners to transform the small space into an even more successful restaurant, with full bar. The decor is very stylish, yet still very warm and inviting, with lots of reds and eclectic light fixtures. While the dining area is small, it's not particularly claustrophobic. The owner and staff are extremely friendly and professional.

Now to the important part-the food. Gilbert's offers both a lunch and dinner menu, a Sunday brunch, as well as a late night international entertainment experience every Wednesday. For lunch, one can choose from sandwiches such as the house specialty lemon garlic grilled chicken, or the vegetarian TMB(Tomato, Mozzarella, and Basil), garnished with pine nuts. They also offer soups, and salads, which can be combined with a sandwich for a meal. Check out the lunch house specialties as well, including delicious shish kebabs.

For dinner, Gilbert's offers meze, the Mediterranean form of appetizers, including such delicacies as dolma, stuffed grape leaves; kalamarakia, fried baby squid; as well as more traditional fare such as falafel, tabbouleh, and hummus. There are several sampler platters to choose from, including one of cheeses, and one of smoked salmon. Heartier appetites will want an entree, and there are some real gems here, including the trout with almond butter, the salmon in bay leaf vapor, and the seasoned filet mignon. All entrees come with a choice of side dishes, including rosemary potatoes, rice pilaf, and pasta salad.

In case you have any room for dessert, or want to take some home with you, Gilbert's offers the traditional baklava, and sinful delights such as the colossal chocolate chunk cheesecake, tiramisu, and creme brulee.

Their wine list has grown since their opening, and does include some Greek wines that you won't find on too many other wine lists in Atlanta. Recently, a specialty martini list has been added.

Gilbert's is one of my favorite neighborhood restaurants. A dinner for two with a glass of wine each can be had for under $50, which is quite a feat for intown dining. If you or someone you know is squeamish about international food, perhaps thinking it will be too spicy for their palate, Gilbert's cuisine is mildly seasoned, allowing the true flavors of the meat and vegetables to come out. I like to think of Gilbert's as "international comfort food," simple but yet very satisfying

 

WWW.ATLANTACUISINE.COM

Editorial Review

Greek fare in Atlanta has been anything but impressive over the years. So, where do you go for good Greek cuisine in this town? Well, if you’re in the mood to spend the checking account, blow the savings, cash in the bonds and crack the piggy bank Kyma awaits. However, if you’re in the mood for just a good casual affordable Mediterranean evening out, then Gilbert’s is your destination.

As you can detect by now I have not been impressed with much Greek food around town and when I received an email from Gilbert’s asking to be reviewed, I thought they were nuts! Did they read my review of JJ’s Ribshack? Did they see how I poked and prodded the highly acclaimed Nuevo Laredo until it was just another Mexican? Are they aware this isn’t one of those publications that you pay a handsome sum and automatically receive gleaming words of praise and glory for accolades accomplished or not? Some questions that entered my mind as I thought for certain this had all the makings of another brutal carving. A sense of fulfillment for those of you with an odd sense of humor and ill regard for the abuse I take at the mercy of the few, the bad and the ugly.

However, this intimate and eclectic Mediterranean café surprised my palate and for those of you eagerly awaiting the next woodshed victim well, you’ll just have to keep waiting!

It’s a charming little place from the staff to the patrons and finishing with its chic décor. The bar will certainly grab your attention and keep you glancing back for more. The dining area is dimly lit under eclectic light fixtures casting just enough light so you that you may enjoy café-like table top images of wines and grapes.

The patrons are as diverse as attendees of a Punk, Pop, Jazz, Rock, Choir, Hip-Hop, Boy George concert. The staff is knowledgeable and helpful but perhaps a tad bit slow at times. Not enough to aggravate but just enough to make you notice. In a weird sort of way it kind of blends in with this cafés charming ‘slow it down a little’ beat.

When you get to the menu the extensive appetizer list may throw you for a loop. Just order the Zorba Platter! The Zorba Platter is a sampler plate filled with the usual Mediterranean suspects. It features Baba Ghannouj, a highly recommended grilled and smoked eggplant paste, a zesty Tabbouleh, a Hoummus loaded with garlic and my companion’s favorite, Dolmathakia, which is grape leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts and spices. She pulled-off some of her chicanery and ended up with one of mine!

I'm not sure if there is a science to tackling this over loaded pile of Greek delights. I take a pita triangle and load it up with a little bit of everything using no exact measurements, it magically blends perfectly every time I reload!

The entrees will keep your utensils fiddling around on your companion’s plate. The Moussaka doesn’t bust the gut like most others I’ve had and is covered in a light creamy white wine Parmesan meat sauce. As I suspected I found meats on a stick such as Chicken Sish Kebab, Souvlaki (lamb kebabs) and my favorite Kefte Kebab which is a ground beef kebab loaded with mystic spices making it very dry, but moistened with a little dipping Tzadziki and you’ve got yourself delightful treat.

The Lamb Tenderloin bathing in a nicely balanced lamb-rosemary jus was clearly the best of the entrees. So tender and flavorful my companion couldn't keep her fork off my plate. However, I would give the Chicken Marsala, Seafood Risotto and Valencian Paella a fighting chance they will not disappoint.

Trying to choose a wine to match the variety of the Zorba Platter, Moussaka, Lamb, Beef and Chicken isn’t too difficult here. Gilbert’s wisely offers a Greek wine called Nadussa Boutari a white wine that seems to go with everything from pasta to seafood and from white meat to red meat. I was delighted to find this one on the wine list!

The only little let down I can find here at Gilbert’s is that they only offer one homemade dessert and that’s a refreshing CrPme Brulee. However, I would have really liked to see this dish served with some blueberries, raspberries and/or black cherries as opposed to the thinly sliced pear it came with. The Baklava, Tiramisu and Colossal Chocolate Chunk are good but not made in house. Don’t get the wrong idea here, the desserts are very good and I wouldn’t kick any of um off my plate. I feel that Chef Ronnie Byron Jr. has the capability to take the desserts here to the next level but lack of kitchen space halts any idea of major in house pastry creation.

The first Wednesday of every month Gilbert’s offers belly dancing from 9pm til 11 pm. The very talented Farasha (Arabic for butterfly) puts on a great show! Gigs like this can be fun and make a perfect evening to give this little charming café a whirl. If you are a restaurant owner and considering offering entertainment of this nature you can contact her at aka_farasha@hotmail.com This café is a charmer! A great addition to its neighborhood and worthy of a drive if your in the mood for a casual Mediterranean night out. It seems to move at a very casual beat, which adds to its charm!

RATING:

Publication:
December 15, 2002

Address:
219 10th St., Midtown Tel: 404-872-8012

Owner: Gilbert Yeremyan, Sean Yeremyan

Chef: Ronnie Byron Jr.

Rating: Choice (6) Worthy of a drive for this type of food.

Type of Cuisine: Mediterranean

Recommended: Yes

Price: $$ Most dishes under $15

Reservations: Recommended but not required.

Atlanta's Best: Moussaka

Wine List: Very Good!

Bar: Full Bar

Hours:
Everyday: 11am-4:30pm (Brunch on Sundays) Sun - Tues open til 10pm and Wed - Sat open til 11pm

Parking: A little tricky!

Recommended dishes:

Appetizers: Zorba Platter
Dinners: Lamb Tenderloin, Moussaka, Kefte Kebab, Chicken Sish Kebab
Desserts: Creme Brulee, Colossal Chocolate Chunk

Wine:
Nadussa Boutari (Greek Wine)

Visit www.atlantacuisine.com to check Atlanta's best restaurants

 

What do our guests say about us?

www.citysearch.com

Nice surprise
I had heard that this restaurant was good but was surprised at how nice the atmosphere was. Very intimate & not too crowded. Great food & service as well.

****OUTSTANDING*****
the place is great, the people is great, the service was outstanding, not only to mention the price is even better.

You have to check this one out!
I went to Gilbert's with 3 other friends, everything we ordered was nothing short of excellent. The service was outstanding and the atmosphere was stylish, yet warm and unpretentious. No heart attack when we got the bill either…We’re definitely going back!

Great make over!
I'm so glad Gilbert's changed from a luncheon atmosphere to dinner. Their food is excellent & although not our usual American overloaded proportions - I've never left there feeling anything but satisfied. Arguably the best hummus in Atlanta and combined with the warm, funky atmosphere, this place has become one of my favorites. I wouldn't recommend this for larger parties - it's better for more intimate parties of two or four because with only 10-15 tables, you might have a wait. Still highly recommended!

One of the Best on that Corner
Gilberts is by far one of the best deals on the 10th & Piedmont Corner. Good food, reasonable priced, owners love their customers, etc... I wish they had the space across the street-- so you could sit outside.

A trip to the Mediterranean
A lovely Mediterranean restaurant with great food--the paella is worth sharing and the smoked salmon appetizer is divine--and friendly service. Not big enough for a large group, it's the perfect place for a date or dinner for two

Excellent
Good food - cute boys - great ambience - reasonable prices.

Great place
I went to Gilbert's twice in December and I was very satisfied both times. The waiters were very friendly and made me feel at home--I appreciated that since I am not from Atlanta. The food was excellent, particularly the French onion soup which was absolutely superb. I definitely plan on going back. Hope I get Carlos or Chard again for a waiter!

Good food, even tastier eye candy
The food at Gilbert's is good, but what is most outstanding is the service & atmosphere.
Our waiter was most attentive and devilishly handsome.
The restaurant is in gay-friendly Midtown but folks of all persuasions gather here to mix & mingle.
I personally enjoy sitting at the bar, the patrons are all talkative & friendly and the bartender, Scott, makes an effort to get to know everyone by name.
Personality goes a long way in this day & age, and Gilbert's is full of it.

 

www.accessatlanta.com

"We had a great time with wonderful food in this cozy neighborhood Mediterranean bistro. The staff and service were quick and friendly. The menu was diverse and quite satisfying. The wine list was both comprehensive and reasonably priced. We can vouch for the sampler plate, gyro/souvlaki combo, and the lamb tenderloin w/rosemary--all done to perfection." -- anonymous user, 11/23/2002

 

"We had a great time with wonderful food in this cozy neighborhood Mediterranean bistro. The staff and service were quick and friendly. The menu was diverse and quite satisfying. The wine list was both comprehensive and reasonably priced. We can vouch for the sampler plate, gyro/souvlaki combo, and the lamb tenderloin w/rosemary--all done to perfection." – anonymous

user, 11/23/2002

 

From IOSATL

 

ON Friday June 28, 2002 at 04:09 PM:

Gilbert's has upgraded their menu! It is even better. The lamb tenderloin was cooked to exactly the way I requested which is unusual for MidTown restaurants that typically serve things raw. The lamb was a perfect medium just slightly red in the center and oh so tender. The grilled vegetables were also excellent. I tasted some of my partners excellent dinner which was a vegetarian feast. I've dined at Kyma in Buckhead for 4X the price and Gilberts is better food.

From BBell1973

 

on Saturday April 06, 2002 at 07:23 PM:

Ate there twice recently and had a fabulous time. Menu was diverse, food was excellent, service was impeccable, and the atmosphere was heavenly. This place used to be a "sandwich shop." Now, it is a cozy, romantic restaurant with deep colors, velvet benches, and whirling waiters. Go there, and go there often

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